I would highly advise doing these 3 things EVEN if your Xbox is still working

Replacing thermal paste on the cpu and gpu’s2. Removing the clock capacitor3. Cleaning the laser lens (and the whole Xbox)

1. Thermal paste on the Xbox dries up, and is no longer able to pass the heat from the chip, to the heat sink. Which is bad, because then the chip just gets hotter and hotter and then can burn itself out. Plenty of pictures showing dried up thermal paste

2. the clock capacitor is known to leak, leaving a highly corrosive trail on your motherboard, which can lead to the traces being destroyed, there are 3 pictures of corroded motherboard traces, 2 of them have the tip of a qtip next to them to show how small the traces are.

3. Most of the time, all a cd based console will need is a good cleaning, this won’t always fix the issue, but it’s the #1 place to start. Its success rate is pretty high, the older the console gets, the weaker the lens becomes.**IMPORTANT OG XBOX CD DRIVE NOTE** the cd drive inside the Xbox has a small board inside of the drive, this board is tied to that specific motherboard, you cannot just take a whole cd drive from another Xbox and place it into your Xbox, it will not work.


You’ll need 2 different size torx bits, a T10 for the 6 torx bits on the bottom of the console (4 of which underneath the feet) (2 of which underneath the stickers in the middle)
and then you’ll need a T9 torx to remove all the screws on the inside. 2 of those will be holding the cd drive down, and 1 will be holding the hard drive down. The rest will be holding the motherboard down
The cd drive and the hardrive have these plastic bunk bed style trays that hold them in place, the 3 T9 torx screws are holding those in place.
After removal of the screws, you should remove the IDE cable that’s connecting the cd drive to the motherboard, there’s an additional cable holding the cd drive to the motherboard as well. Remove both of those. As for the hard drive, there will be a Molex connector that’s attached the the PSU, remove the molex connector, then, you will be able to pull the CD drive and the HDD out of the Xbox, exposing the motherboard.
Once you have the motherboard visible, there are 5 connectors on it, 2 of which are for your controllers, 1 is for the power/disc tray button, the 4th is for power from the PSU, and the 5th is for your fan. Remove all of these. grab your T9 torx bit, and remove the surplus of screws holding this motherboard that you can remove the motherboard.


ok, now that you have your motherboard out, and separated from everything. it’s time to get off those old heat sinks, there are 2 pressure clips holding the heat sinks down, use a small pry bar of some sort, to push one side down, and then pop it up, this can take a little while to get used to in the first place. once you have those 2 pressure clips removed (OH, and if your Xbox has a fan on the heatsink, unplug it from the motherboard, not all xbox’s have this fan) once the pressure clips are removed, you can now remove the heatsinks…. WARNING, THEY’RE GOING TO BE STUCK! at this time, the thermal paste has dried up so much to the point where its like puddy. you may need to pry underneath them to pop them off with a small flathead screwdriver, be careful where you obtain your leverage from, you do not want to damage the plastic housing around the heatsinks. now with the heatsinks removed, it’s time to remove that old ass thermal paste. you can use 91% isopropyl alcohol and cotton balls, but you’ll be there for a while. aprox 20 min or more of steady wiping.. you can use thermal paste remover as well, I found 100% ACETONE acquired from the fingernail polish section of a drug store works incredibly well. be careful not to purchase regular fingernail polish remover though, as they put alot of like… soy bean oil and coconut butter and aloe vera and other stuff into it, to make it less harsh on your fingers, you dont want none of that, because this is for OG XBOX! not your nails, look at the ingredients of the acetone, you want it to say 100% acetone, with no other additives. 3$ for 100% acetone.
ok, so once you’ve wiped away all the thermal paste residue from the chips and the heatsinks with 100% acetone and cotton balls or whatever you used. time to apply new thermal paste, i use arctic silver MX-4, it’s great. 8 bucks on Amazon. just squirt a pea size blob in the middle of the chip, put the heatsink back on, add the pressure clamps, and wont overheat now!


not all og xbox have the dreaded clock capacitor, but most of them do. The clock cap is labeled on most motherboards as C7G2 (or maybe it’s C762) i can’t tell if it’s a 6 or a G, but anyway, there’s pictures of the capacitor removed to help you identify which one it is. I just heat up the 2 solder points on the bottom of the board with my iron, and just pull it off with needle nose pliers. After the clock cap is removed, CLEAN THE AREA! there’s most likely alot of corrosion around, clean it with isopropyl alcohol and a qtip! just remove it, your ogxbox wont tell time anymore, but it also wont destroy itself.
CD DRIVE LENS CLEANINGsince the cd drive is removed, take it out of it’s plastic bunk bed, and there will be 4 screws.just remove the 4 screws to open up the lid. and you will have access to the lens. 91% isopropyl alcohol + qtip, and make sure to clean the rest of the inside of the drive, so dirt doesn’t find its way back to the lens*BONUS*While you have the CD drive open, there’s a little rubber band underneath the drive, this rubber band gets mega dirty, remove it, wipe it with your fingers, and just put it back, the dirt on the rubber band doesn’t allow it to catch in the motor mechanism, causing the tray to sometimes get stuck or open or close slowly.